Tuesday, August 3, 2010

"You are the best of the best"- Hotel Manager on us taking local transportation


Before my mom and I begin our once in a lifetime Tanzanian safari, I thought I’d share all the fun memories we have made in East Africa. Since the day my mom arrived, we’ve been playing a game of tallying who’s winning: America or Africa. “One point for USA!” my mom will say. Props to her because Africa sure seems to be in the lead.

America Wins Again:
To begin on a positive note, my mom has experienced and seen beautiful things in Rwanda. She’s seen new grains, climbed hills, seen the bases of volcanoes, the top of Kilimanjaro, drank lots of Fantas and tried Rwandan corn. She was serenaded to by my students and colleagues on two separate occasions. She has had outfits made and done so many Rwandan greetings, you’d think she was umunyarwanda kazi. She was successfully yelling at and scaring away the children that stalk my house by the second day. “Oya Oya!” she would yell at the top of her lungs, just like her daughter. She turned down some marriage proposals for me. She has ridden not one broke down, sketchy matatu van but several. She has dipped her toes in Lake Kivu and saw a caged Black Mamba snake. Mama Amanda has killed spiders and used a squatty-potty for days at a time. She has also mastered the whole Peace Corps routine:
-       heat a small amount of water
-       fill bucket with hot and cold water
-       use cup to pour over body
-       repeat as necessary
C’mon, how many moms do you know that could do that?

But Africa keeps winning:
Day one I got my mom on malaria meds but that didn’t stop me from constantly suspecting she had it and therefore scaring the crap out of her.* In English conversations, my mom commonly replies, “oh yeah”, only to remember that in Kinyarwanda that means no. She had to eat ubugare, a dish made from cassava which smells and tastes like “rotted, fetid horse flesh.” Mama Amanda experienced a smelly, crammed bus ride during which approximately 22 people were crowed into a van that seats 18. During this journey, Creepy McCreepster kept grabbing her hand and his partner in crime, Leann’ Unclean Dean kept invading her personal space more and more. On a later bus ride, a squealing puppy nipped at her feet and peed on the floor below her seat. She became violently ill one night in Kigali and had resulting aches and pains for 24 hours. She took so much pepto bismol that her tongue became black.  Our first night in Tanzania I removed an intact sac of chigger eggs from her foot.* Afterwards, she went at her mosquito bites with a Swiss army knife out of fear that they were also parasites.* On this same day, we were robbed on the bus (ok, just a dollar) and I burned my finger to the point that it’s covered in huge blisters. She’s suffering from mosquito, spider and flea bites while I have none.

I would say that in this epic battle of wits and nerve, it is neither America or Africa that is winning: it is my Mom. We have had a great time and she’s been incredibly supportive when my spirits were at their lowest. We’ve spent a few days in Kigali, we did the whole Peace Corps Rwanda thing in my village, we stayed with Tressa for a night and spent my birthday week in Gisenyi on Lake Kivu. She has been able to meet my exceptional Peace Corps buddies, most of my colleagues, Rwandan women who have been like family to me and lots of beautiful children.

Most important to me is that I have someone to share the day to day with and that is my mother. I can still feel crazy, frustrated and angry while she is heroically putting up with the terrors of a less developed country but at least we are together!



Goodmorningee finethankyouteachersitdown!

*Mom thanks Grandma for the valium and Zanax.

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