Friday, October 23, 2009

Uyu munsi nagiye kuri umukozi

(Today I went to the tailor. The bargaining was intense)

Dear blog,

I am attaching a first set of pictures from Rwanda if they will load. In order they are:

1. Most of the group at our country director’s house

2. Meeting our resource family’s for pre-service training

3. A stellar view at sunset

Things are on the upswing right now. All of us except our dear Elizabeth (we miss you!) made it through weeks 1-2, the hardest weeks of all. Already, language and technical classes are flying by. Kinyarwanda becomes more manageable as I use it more and more in the market, with my resource family and when greeting strangers. The signs and symptoms of culture shock that I was feeling so acutely at the beginning of the week, namely homesickness, lethargy, sickness, hostility towards my host country nation and the strong desire to be with other Americans, are simmering on the back burner for now. When they hit me and I feel inundated with pessimism, I just ride that emotional wave and indulge in those patterned behaviors. This helps them pass more quickly.

Yesterday, Nicole and I had a great adventure in the market. Thursday is market day and people come from all over because it is the cheapest market in the country. This brings the “amazungu” calls to an epidemic level but we were prepared. At one point, Nicole turned on the trail of children behind us and sternly stated in Kinyarwanda, “my name is not ‘white person’, my name is Nicole.” Floored ‘em. Another surprise we amazungus brought to the market was our newfound ability to bargain! We got our avocadoes down to 10 cents a piece. And our beautiful cloth to $8 for 4 yards. And our clothing down from 12,000 Rwandan francs to 6,000. Successful afternoon for the market goers.

My three roommates and I are getting along well and have started the nesting, teasing, etc. I flipped out at the unnecessary death of a praying mantis but besides that, all is well in the Kitchen House. Today I had an interview with the training director, who had some good feedback for me. He said the other language instructors had noticed that I do not pick favorites among them and I dress very well everyday. It is so important in Rwanda to do so. They also said the group needs me, which I appreciated. And lastly, I need to talk more. Heard that before… Tomorrow we go to Butare, a big university town, to visit a museum and memorial and to eat some different food. There are rumours of our site placements but we probably won’t go to our new sites until after Christmas.

Once again I have been drawn to a bike-loving country. I cannot wait to get a bike! So far, I have only seen men on bikes and they are often used as taxis. I’m going to plan a women’s bike trip across Rwanda sometime during our service. Lindsay, a fellow cyclist and Colorado native, suggested we do it as a fundraised for FAWE, an NGO that funds women’s education. Sounds great and many have expressed interest and support.

Thanks for reading.

Penny


Saturday, October 17, 2009

Taboos

I think it's early enough to discuss cultural taboos. This is what I've learned so far from other PCVs and our language teachers.

Things Americans do that are inappropriate...
tipping
having men in your house after 6
eating and drinking in public
sitting on the ground, cross-legged, leg up on chair, etc.
eating and drinking anything in class
short greetings
having "naked" (barefoot) feet. ever.
short greetings
hanging your underwear to dry in the living room
singing
leaving the table before everyone is finished
wearing tight clothing
showing emotion in public

Norms In Rwanda...
hand holding and cuddling between men is common, staring is acceptable as are lots of questions, it is a compliment to be called a cow or fat, begging and bargaining, specifying whether you want your beer cold or warm, being late except for class and yawning when you're hungry, not tired.

I'm working on it.

Today was exhausting, draining, frustrating and long but I had it easy. Today we met our Rwandan resource family that we will spend many hours with each week over the next couple of months. Their names are Agatha, Pascal, Kariza, Bruce and Liock. My resource family spoke a little English and French so I was much better off than trainees who could only use broken Kinyarwanda. I learned more today than in any language class so far. Numbers, time, body parts, kitchen. The family and children were a delight.

I've started running in the mornings with another umusitajeri, Ashley, and it is the best way to wake up to and see Rwanda. So far, I've seen other men and a woman running as well as many umuzungus. It's cool, foggy, hilly and the smells are best in the am.

Love to all.

My phone number is country code 250 + 785387161. PLease call! We are 8 hours ahead of mountain time and I'm up early.

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Petite a petite, le oiseau fait son nit

Bite! Nbwebe ndi umukorerabushake wa Peace Corps. I know, Kinyarwanda is pretty fantastic and intimidating. Today is our 7th day in country and our 2nd day of language class. All 36 of us are working hard, spirits are high and the placement feels perfect. We are in the Nyanza district for our Pre Service Training (PST) for the next 10 weeks. We are living in four separate houses with other volunteers and language teachers and have good walks between houses, the market and the kitchen/classrooms. I feel extremely priveleged right now as we have electricity, flushing toilets and cooks.

Rwanda is beautiful and the epitome of a perfect climate and location. Infinite hills in every direction, every shade of green, sweet smells as I walk to town, new and spectacular plants, red clay roads and clean streets. I was shocked to see how clean the country is but have come to understand why. Once a month, all Rwandans take a Saturday to clean their villages or do community service projects. This is one of the many ways in which President Kagame is helping to instill a sense of ownership in the citizens. This country and its rebirth astound me every day. The horrors of the war are very much hidden from day to day life.

Petite a Petite, or slowly by slowly, has come up again and again in conversations with locals, teachers, other PCVs and speakers. Just as us language learners must take it day by day, slowly by slowly, so has the country overcome the brutal jenoside that killed 1 million Rwandans in just a few months. The Rwandans feel very strongly about learning English as a way of advancing their country. ALready, I have had two adult Rwandans in town ask me for English lessons. The children that stand outside our house for a good part of the day love practicing their English. You wouldn't believe it but I met Barak OBama, CHris Brown and Kanye West last night!...

Oh, I almost forgot. (Jay...) I tried Banana beer for 350 rwandan francs (less than a dollar) but I really didn't like it. I'll have to give it another try. We've been eating some fresh fruit every day and some don't have English names as far a I know. Rwandan food is not spiced but I have enjoyed it thus far.

Very happy and positive right now. What I don't understand, I know I can still handle. PLease write as I would love to hear from you.

Amanda aka Penny