Monday, February 21, 2011

Like Water Falling on Rock: A summary



My days as a Peace Corps Volunteer came to a sudden end late January when I was sent home to get my health in check. I have spent hours reflecting upon my positive experience serving in Rwanda and how to conclude my blog for my readers. My pondering returned again and again to a conversation I had with my Grandmother before I left. I was telling her of my successes and frustrations when she summarized it with an old expression from her mother:

“It’s like water falling on rock. Eventually it makes a dent.”

This is exactly how I feel about the work of a Peace Corps volunteer. It is slow, frustrating and sometimes your results are not visible. Most volunteers don’t even get into the swing of service until one year has passed. Since I was un/fortunate enough to change sites mid service, I was able to step back and see the positive effects of my service as a high school English teacher. As many Africans say, slowly by slowly, buhoro buhoro, things take their course. Examples of the successes of PCVs in Rwanda are in English, health education, the promotion of customer service and a strong work ethic and the cross-cultural exchange between the USA and Rwanda. I like to think my market food choices and hygiene habits were observed and mimicked by some Rwandans. The strides my students made in English after just one year were enough to send me home happy and proud.

Just as a Peace Corps Volunteer slowly works towards sustainable development, so does life in a post-conflict country slowly wear on an individual. I would like to share a very grim personal story that affected my mental state and service in Rwanda.  This is a heavy story, one I debated publishing but it made as big of an impression on me as my personal relationships and success stories. I have kept my writings positive up to now but this I have to share.

One late afternoon I arrived at my secondary school for my daily teacher English classes. I arrived as school was finishing and to my surprise, all the students were gathered on the basketball court instead of playing, bathing, washing clothes or studying. The teachers were also congregated on the playground under the hot sun, pointing and whispering.

“What was happening?” I asked fellow teachers, openly concerned.

It turns out that three students were caught in a sex scandal in which one jealous boy locked another boy and girl in a classroom at night. This would be a big no-no at any boarding school but in our small rural community, this was outrageous. The students had been sent home as punishment but upon their return, one staff member felt they had not been adequately punished and he decided to make an example of them.

This staff member rounded up the three students on a grassy hill that the other 500+ students were gathered around. The teachers, including myself, stood at a distance on higher ground where we could view the action. The staff member verbally humiliated these students, particularly the female and asked the crowd of students if they thought the culprits had been sufficiently punished. Following mixed responses, the man called up four or so of our youngest students to where the three were standing. He had the three students lie down on their stomachs and repeatedly beat them with a bamboo stick until it was frayed. The young students had the task of counting the number of beatings the students received.

At this point, all the teachers were cheering and jeering at the three students’ cries. One of the male students who were being beaten jumped up to runaway and our staff member threw him to the ground and kicked him over and over. I sensed that many students were uncomfortable and as for myself, I held my objecting stomach and turned away. My heart raced, I was nauseous and had tears in my eyes. My throat closed in a tight, protesting rage. A good friend turned to me and said, “I know this is not how you do things in America. But this is what we do.” The beatings finally came to an end and I cancelled class and ran home. Everyone was happy to have class cancelled; there was too much to talk about.

I was thrown and shaken by this corporal punishment for three reasons. First of all, this was my school and students were being beaten despite the fact that the government “looked down” upon corporal punishment. Second of all, the colleague orchestrating the violence was one of my closest, favorite colleagues at the school. He was someone I trusted. Thirdly, I saw this as a cycle of violence much bigger than anything a mere volunteer could tackle. The perpetrator must have seen violence himself so when he was in a position of power was able to control people in such a way. Those three students, I realized, would think to use violence when they themselves finally rose in the Rwandan hierarchy and could humiliate those beneath them just as they had been humiliated.* This was tragic and confusing for me to process. Through discussions at school, I was relieved to know that some colleagues disapproved of the public beating. Still, I was left with the sad truth that my English teaching was secondary to many of the other struggles in this country. 

I have dozens of stories along this same line. And like water falling on rock, these episodes of violence caused a depression in my psyche that wore me down. Such psychological struggles in development work are expected but I encourage those abroad or at home dealing with violence or residual aggression to seek help and support and to develop coping mechanisms.



Despite this event, I loved my Peace Corps experience. There were so many positive experiences to overshadow this event. The best part of Peace Corps? The people I met. Would I recommend it?

Absolutely.

*I would like to mention that the female student struggled and eventually left the school. 

Ndi mu rugo... muri Amerika.


I want to post some videos and short stories of memorable moments in my Peace Corps service in Rwanda. Hopefully it will be a good way of summarizing my sixteen months in East Africa. I have seen been medically separated from Peace Corps so I write you from the comforts of Grand Lake, Colorado.

One day while catching a rickety old bus to my site, a small girl of around 2 years joined me in the hot vehicle and began to nap. She was pretty cute so I tolerated her sleeping behind my back while I leaned forward to accommodate her. After about an hour of waiting, the bus left for Kirambo. And about 20 minutes after this, someone finally looked over at this girl and realized she belongs to no one in the bus. Screeeeech. Reverse. Let’s return this little girl to wherever she came from.
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I have dozens of hilarious memories that include Tressa. Some are not blog appropriate but others, like the time she shook the hand of a woman who had just wiped her baby’s butt with her hand, are perfect. Another time, we walked into my village center together and Tressa exclaimed, “Oh no I forgot to put on deodorant.” With a sigh, I replied, “So did the rest of the population.” One of our last days together, some Rwandans on our bus looked at us and said, “you are so two friends.” Why yes, we are.
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I remember one hot, emotionally-low day in Kigali I was riding a bus to the Peace Corps office. My apologies for bumping into people as I boarded turned into small Kinyarwanda chit chat and a man immediately asked if I was a Peace Corps volunteer. I was so surprised and flattered that he had heard of us. He spoke of all the good things we are doing and commended us for learning Kinyarwanda. As I got off the bus, several people shook my hand in appreciation. It was incredibly touching.
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I love the story of the man that came to my house right after I moved in trying to sell a turtle. He presented a small piece of paper with French writing and a price of 1,000,000 RWF. This equates to $2000. My neighbor Alice and I just laughed and no transaction was made.

scars on Parliament
drying corn and potatoes
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Oh the kids at my old site! They would go through my trash and wear labels and strings from packaging all over their bodies. They would use my outhouse and steal my light bulbs. They would give dance performances to visitors. After I taught them tic-tac-toe, they would start games on their own outside my door to lure me outside. In the last few months, they started screaming, “sit down!” outside my house when I didn’t respond to “good morning!”
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The battle of the l’s and r’s. The funny examples of how Rwandans switch the letters are endless. Recent ones include “Lude Boy by Rihanna”, R Wayne (as in Lil’ Wayne) and the names Groliose and Leopord to mean Gloriose and Leopold. I called that student Leopard for 2/3 of the school year.  
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I have stories and opinions about Peace Corps bureaucracy that would make you chuckle. My favorite? When Peace Corps took three of us to the wrong dentist and neither Peace Corps nor the dentist realized it until after we'd all had a teeth creaning and the dentist came running after us. All in all, Peace Corps administration has its obstacles like any organization and I will always highly recommend Peace Corps. 
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I have nice memories of animals in the bedroom. There were your standard spiders, huge caterpillars, fleas and mice. Once, I awoke to an odd sound above me. As I looked up, two fighting geckos fell onto my forehead. I couldn’t help but squeal. Another time at site, I noticed lots of neighborhood kids running around outside. I heard what sounded like a kid trying to open my window. I jumped up, threw back the curtains and tumbled backwards in surprise at the huge male baboon hanging from my window irons.
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And last of all, the cultural differences. In an English class, I taught my colleagues the recipe for tomato soup. “Sounds good,” they all assured me, “but we cannot make this.”
“Because you are men?”
“No. You cannot put milk in soup.”